Flies For Fishing

In fly fishing, flies are generally divided into four types of artificial flies. (Flies are also known as decoys in some countries).

They are:

1 Dry flies

2 Wet flies

3 Nymphs

4 Streamers

The categories of flies can cross into each other. There is no real strict guidelines to classify flies depending on the country, the traditions of the terminology. (Some fishermen also classify appears as another class of flies. These areas partly below the surface and partially on the surface of the water, in imitation of things as ephemeral They can be caught again, drifting with the current or the wind or caught with small quick jerks or pulls. Experience using flies dry can be exhilarating as you can see the fish strike the fly. Dries are used seasonally in lakes and rivers and are generally effective when fish are actively feeding on insects above the water. Dry flies are usually made of lightweight materials are floating or ires par with that help on the fly sit on the surface of the water. A spray flotation or gel is applied to the dry fly for make it dynamic. A couple of false casts will also help to dry.


Wet flies
as its name indicates that the fly is caught in the water, either. The flies can imitate small bait fish, leeches, frogs, insects crawdad and swimming. Wets may be fished just under the surface with the dead drifts, slow twitching retrieve up quickly. Sometimes a decision will occur in the fly is sinking. wet To get deeper, the weight of heads or beads are effective, especially when combined with intermediate or sinking fly lines.


The nymphs are very effective and a common world-wide food source in rivers and lakes. Nymphs can be caught on the downward drift, and slow to recover medium, either just below the surface or at depth. They imitate the underwater scene insects such as mayfly nymphs, the nymphs and bead ladies. Much of the diet of trout consists of nymphs in most seasons and water. A leading long cape and is effective for nymphing, especially in clear waters or fishing.

Streamers are larger wet flies imitating bait minnows, sculpins and larger food appetizing. Coils tend to work better near background and are usually quickly recovered for salmon, the largest trout and also for saltwater fish. Bigger flies like streamers, May also cause an increase in catches, but do not be surprised if your four-inch land a small stream trout Twelve Inch. Streamers artificial can be colored and have a mixture of assorted materials fly tying.

Dry flies, wets, nymphs and streamers are all effective in the right environment. The secret to the best of your fishing is to use different techniques and test all the time. Do not afraid to try different types of flies and patterns, especially if fishing is slow. So no matter what country you live and regardless of how you classify your bird, make sure you have different types of flies to cover all conditions for fly fishing and fish. Now you are ready to seize the great!

© 2008-2009 Fly Fishing Fish

About the Author:

For more fly fishing tips, techniques, reviews and new information go to http://www.FlyFishingFish.com

Article Source: ArticlesBase.com - Fly Fishing, Beginners Guide to the Types of Fishing Flies

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Tortures for Flies: Fly Fishing

Tapered Leader

How do I set up a fly rod?

I have backing(how much do i use) fly line(how much do i use)and a tapered leader with a loop in the thick end...help me i am clueless

How to set up a fly rod--------------

Can you go to a person who knows what they are doing to get help? If so, I would strongly recommend it. Otherwise, give this a try. You need to learn it anyway.

Did you buy a package deal, that gave you a rod, reel, backing, line, leader and flies?

Or, did you buy separate pieces.

If you bought the package deal, then everything should match up, however I have seen some all-in-one outfits that were not fit to be called fly rods.

If you bought separate pieces, then I hope someone guided you through the purchases. Like is the fly rod the size (as in the weight of the rod, not the actual weight (yes, here is where you start scratching your head trying to figure out what I am saying) but the indicated weight of the rod. Like is it a 5 weight or a 6 weight, or did you buy a specialty rod, like a 2 or 3 weight or a 8 or 9 weight?

What kind of fish you are going for, is the determining factor in what size rod to buy.

Then your reel has to match up fairly close to the rod. Reels are sold with designators indicating that they are for a 5 or 6 weight or a 7 to 8 weight or a 2 to 3 weight rod. This is important. You can not use a 2/3 weight reel on a 6 weight rod. The line will totally fill the reel and there will be no room for backing or anything else. Also, the reel helps balance the rod while you are casting. So, if you have an ultra light reel on a heavy rod, the balance of the reel is going to be way up the rod somewhere, not down at the cork handle you are holding on to. That means you will have a hard time casting and wear yourself out faster than you should.

So, let's hope the reel matches the rod.

Eric is right, use the Arbor knot to tie on the backing to the center spool of your reel. But first, do you want to reel this in with your right hand, thus holding the rod with your left hand, or do you want to reel it in with your left hand holding the rod with your right hand? I am going to assume you are right handed, if not the question simply needs to be reversed.

With small fish you can get away with casting with your strong hand and then switching the rod over to your other hand to reel in the line when you have a fish on. However, if you are going after big fish, then it is best to hold the rod with your strong hand and reel with your other hand, since it is your strong hand that has to hold the rod during the fight. Your muscles and mind-hand coordination are better with your strong hand.

Stop right here: You want to have at least one guide to put your backing through before you tie you it to the reel, so make sure you thread the backing and later the line through a guide. Some rods require you to put two pieces together to get a guide to use.

The line has to come off the bottom of the reel. Let's say you are right handed and decided to reel in with your left hand (best choice). Tie the backing on so the line comes onto the reel from the bottom front and wraps up behind the reel then back out the top front, tie your arbor knot.

Reel in all of your backing if it is a complete outfit, otherwise you will have to play around with finding the right amount of backing. The papers that came with your reel should tell you how much backing in 20 pound Dacron or 30 pound Dacron your reel will take, but how are you to know how much you have reeled on? (I usually take my reel to my local fly shop and have them load it for me).

The backing serves two purposes. First, it helps fill the reel with line so your fly line does not have to be wound up in such small circles (that really causes a problem with the line). Also, if you hook into a big one or hook a tree or rock then you have some extra line to play with to get to shore or back up to where you snagged up the line. Fly lines are expensive and you do not want to be loosing those.

Eric is right, the nail knot is an excellent knot to use to tie the backing onto the fly line. In fact, once you learn to tie the knots, then you can tie two nail knots in a row onto your fly line. If the first nail knot should fail, the second one should hold.

Below are some websites you can go to in order to learn to tie the knots you need to learn. Practice with some string, two different colored ones if you can, and learn how to tie the knots we mention.

You now have the backing tied onto your line. Usually there is a little tag that mentions which end should be tied to the backing. If not, then if you are using a weight forward line, the backing gets tied to the end that has the really long and slender line. The other end has a very short slender line then very quickly thickens up, then slowly thins back down. That is the end you tie your leader onto.

So, tie your backing onto your fly line and now you need to reel it in. I prefer to take a small long box and punch a pencil or small 1/4 inch dowel through one side, push on your lines plastic holder then push the pencil out the other side. Now your line will come off the spool nice and straight and not twist on you.

Once you have reeled in all the line, now you will find out if you used too much backing because your line will not fit smoothly onto the reel. Best bet, strip your line out, and then take off some backing, cut it and tie the line back onto the backing and reel it in again.

Now you come to your leader. It has a loop on it you said. That makes it handy, but then you have to have a loop on the line or you can not use it. Some lines being made now have loops built into them. If you do not have one of those, then the best thing you can do is tie a short piece of mono onto your fly line then tie in a loop at the other end.

For now, use the nail knot to tie the mono to your line. The thicker the leader, the fewer the wraps you need to form a nail knot, but the rule of thumb is 4 or 5 turns. You can buy a nail knot tool, I would strongly recommend it, and it makes tying nail knots super easy with just a little practice. The key to any nail knot is to pull the tag end of the leader quickly and smoothly. If you go slow you end up with a horrible looking knot. If you practice ahead of time, you will tie a good looking nail knot.

For a short piece of mono I have often just cut off a foot of my leader, the thick end, and tied it to my line, then tied in a small loop using a Perfection Loop knot. If the leader came with a loop, then you have a built in loop, but you will then have to tie a Perfection Knot loop back into your leader.

It is important that this short, 4 to 5 inch piece of leader be just about as thick as the line, you can not use a real limp and small size piece of mono. If you do you will not be able to transfer the power of the cast into your leader.

If you are going to tie on a tippet to the other end of the leader I suggest learning the Blood Knot or the Improved Surgeon's Knot. The blood knot may be the best one to use.

When putting the rod together, line up the guides and push the pieces together with an equal amount of pressure from both hands. The guides have to line up for proper casting. After an hour or so of casting, make sure you test the sections to keep them from slowly coming apart.

Now tie on a small piece of yarn and learn how to cast.

Here are three sites you can go to and learn about knot tying for fly fishing. I really love the Animated Knots by Grog site, the first one listed.

Good luck.

Larry

http://www.animatedknots.com/indexfishing.php?LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.animatedknots.com

http://globalflyfisher.com/fishbetter/knots/table.php

http://www.flyfisherman.com/skills/lkknots/index.html

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Weather advisory extended to 10 p.m.
Only a bit more snow may fall today, but subfreezing temperatures will continue their hold on Central Indiana, potentially slipping up motorists and anyone trying to catch the bus.

Many thanks for reading our Tapered Leader article

Orvis Fly
Fly line sinks, what to do?

I have a WF5F line from Orvis that is pretty old. After an hour or so of fishing, the tip begins to sink. I was wondering if I can trim off the end of the line that seems to have lost its bouyancy without effecting the casting properties of the line or do I need to replace the entire line. Will a simple line dressing solve this problem? 3-5 feet of the line begins to sink during fishing, that's all I would probably trim.

Follow up: recommendations for a good replacement that isn't too expensive?

Since your line is old...check for tiny little cracks in it by looking closely and bending the line..if you see a bunch of cracks (its called "checking") then I'm afraid you will have to replace your line. If not, go to your local fly shop and see if they carry those little round pads made for cleaning line. It also has a line dressing mixed in it. It's a cheap fix and they are good to have even when you eventually get some new fly line. That line isn't cheap so an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure as the saying goes. Clean your line often and it will last quite a long time. There are about 5 or so in each pack and it sells for only a couple bucks tops. Cabelas has some decent fly lines to pick from.

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Zero Gravity Salt / Freshwater 107-4 from Orvis will introduce a new level of performance that has more votes than casting and presentations easier. It is up to 25% stronger then the comparative models to help protect your investment. The 107-4 Fly Rod is hand-craftsmanship by some of the best bar manufacturers today.

The stem 107-4 fly fishing is one of the lighter but more powerful fly rod you've already used are constructed from a special material called boron, a pure system of canvas carbon and thermoplastic-toughened resins. They designed a new card system seamlessly joint have been strengthened to prevent and control cracking. Those responsible for this bar to give three layers of finish and a final layer of a specially formulated UV filter.

The reel seat and door hardware are anodized 6061 Texalium inserting a guide fibers are made of titanium carbide for the year cons fight against these big fish, which also has a guide of silicon carbide removal which help to protect their line of flight. The bar even has a protective aluminum tube and the fly rod sock to protect it when traveling.

Manufacturers of Zero Gravity 107-4 Rod are guaranteed for 25 years to repair or replace the rod if something happens to go wrong but I think is very unlikely to make the quality of work that goes into these rods.

If you are looking for salmon and fishing rods Steelhead that you will lay alone, gives control of your presentation and the strength and stamina to fight against these powerful fish that is much of your hard earned money to buy the Zero Gravity 107-4 Fly Rod.

Steelhead, Salmon and Trout Fishing has been a passion of mine since I was a young boy. Most of my free time was spent on lakes and streams here in the northwest, and I have picked up on some interesting facts about fishing for these species over the last 45 years. I would like to share them with you through articles and at my websites I hope you find them helpful and enjoyable. So please stop by check out some information or just stock up on your fishing gear. Hope to see you on the river!

RR Smith
http://www.steelhead-gear.com for all your fishing needs
http://steelhead-gear.com/wordpress Stellhead, Salmon and Trout Fishing blog

Fly Reel Spool

my fly lines dont sit straight on water,how can i make them stay in a taught line.?

i have changed over to a more larger spool so theres less coil up .im currently using lureflash large arbor reels.

Fly line has a lot of memory in it. It remembers the coil of the reel (spool memory)and thats why so many curves on the water. That memory also inhibits your casts as it causes more friction in your rod guides. The best way to remove some of the spool memory is to simply find a grassy spot and strip line from the reel and then give each arm length a good serious tug with both hands. I do not recommend you wrapping the line around a tree as you may well turn and expensive dry fly line unintentionaly into a poor excuse for a sinking line.

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Many thanks for reading our Fly Reel Spool article

Extra Spool

Do you think that bright colored fly lines spook fish?

I fished a pond recently and put on the same wt line and leader on some extra spools but one fly line was clear, one was green and one was orange. I used a wooly bugger and presented it in the same manner with each line. I caught the most bass with the clear line. I also caught quite a few fish with the green line. With the orange line, I did catch fish but I could actually see the fish hesitate before making the decision to strike or not. Do you think the color of fly line makes any difference in your catch ratio?

That is an excellent question and not an easy one to answer. I use a combination of clear and camo intermediate lines, darker floating lines (like Rio's Nymphing line) and some floating fly lines that are really bright, like yellow or orange or light green.

The fly fishing line manufacturers have created a wide variety of lines over the years. I remember when they first came out with a line of brightly colored fluorescent lines, saying how great it was that you would be able to see your line. People bought them and used them, including many experts. They worked just fine. Then they came out with the clear and camo intermediate lines and they worked just fine. Then to the darker greens and some have a brighter blue to match the sky, and they will work just fine.

I think what that shows is that it really doesn't matter so much as to what the color of the line is, but rather how you, the fly fisher, uses it.

If you drift your fly line, any colored fly line, directly over fish that have been fished really hard, you will spook the fish. If it drifts over fish that seldom see a fly fisher, then it may not matter as much. After all, the rivers and lakes carry tons of natural junk in the water, all very natural for the fish to see. I have had salmon swim right between my legs, because they don't fear us, out in the ocean they never saw a person standing in the water. To them, it was just more objects in the water, nothing to worry about. On the opposite side of that, you can step up to the edge of a stream and spook all the fish out of a pond just by them seeing you or your shadow or feeling the vibrations of your steps. They have seen a lot of predators like us and respond very quickly.

So, keep your fly line from drifting over the fish. Use fluorocarbon tippet to make it even harder for the fish to see your leader. If you are in a river, start working the water closest to you and work your fly and fly line out farther into the stream in stages. That way you will decrease your chance of drifting line directly over fish that are in a feeding mode.

Use longer leaders to allow you to keep the line farther away. If you are casting upstream, learn to toss a reach cast to get your line off the seam you are going to work your fly.

In the lakes, I usually use the clear or camo lines or the newer Outbound fly lines by Rio, with a clear mono shooting head then a colored running line. My sinking lines are almost all dark or dark headed with a running line that may be colored lighter. For dry flies you can use the newer clear lines, I have not tried them, but I do use a long leader and fluorocarbon tippet.

If I am going to work a fly from my WaterMaster raft, I cast it out then strip out almost all of my fly line so the fly is 100 feet behind my boat. That gives the water a 100 foot distance to calm down from my passing through and for the fish to feel comfortable again. Then I work the fly in short 10 foot strips and then snake the line out and move my boat about 15 feet, then work the fly again.

So, down and dirty, I don't think the color of the line is critical, it is how you use and present the line that counts.

Larry

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Often unheralded, the wedding coordinator captures much of the blame and never the credit for well-executed weddings. Some coordinators are solo while some come with quite an arsenal of personnel. But all being equal, their value are sorted down to the following:

Stress Relief.

We are in a wedding crazy country. Being predominantly Catholic and pretentiously religious people we have a tendency to invest a lot in our nuptials. An often-mentioned jibe is, but always half true, we do not simply marry another person. We marry into a whole family. Hiring a coordinator can give the couple an unbiased anchoring point into uniting the preferences of both sides of the families including friends and patrons.

Sometimes just keeping the peace between clans is worthwhile enough to hire a professional.

Focus.

The most popular churches sometimes are booked so far back that the entire wedding takes a year or more to produce. This fact alone will warrant a point person to task list activities and to do's while the engaged couple live through their careers and gather resources at the same time.

Keeping focus also means contacting and constantly reminding the concerned guests, participants and most importantly suppliers to keep to the schedule. This would be equal to planning a one-night concert, innumerable details and intricate logistics all for a single performance.

Cost Control.

Being such an emotional adventure for the couple, most weddings go haywire in the budget department because of a lot of impulsive decisions. Having the heart instead of the head often leads to years of debt for newlyweds. Something we should always try to avoid.

The planners experience in creatively juggling "wants versus needs" will establish parameters in behalf of the couple and keep the budget in line. Being a professional, the planner will keep financial positions private and may sometimes intercede by extending terms for payments since they are usually highly regarded by suppliers and entertainers.

A Fistful of Wisdom

Experienced coordinators have seen it all and heard it all. Legal and sacramental advice comes with the package of these planners. Churches have different restrictions, venues have deficiencies and provinces have different beliefs, superstitions and traditions. Coordinators can pour all these particulars and line up a pocket of solutions to satisfy most requirements.

Free Time

Getting a coordinator most importantly gives you invaluable free time to spend on finer matters, such as interviewing photographers and videographers to capture important moments in your celebration. Even choosing the albums can be quite a chore. Picking out the flowers and décor to match your theme, listing down items for the bridal registry, attending to fittings, going to salons and most importantly meeting up friends and sponsors to make sure they will give your union the support it deserves. Actually most of what has just been set will be done with much help from the coordinator as they can filter the ones you should talk to or deal with in the first place.

In sum, the wedding coordinator gives the most value by covering the intangibles leading to that special day. They are like an insurance policy to enable the couple to experience more joy. They will carry the extra safety pin, the spool of thread, the extra car, the duct tape and the very best ones carry something borrowed and something blue.

This article was written by Timothy Spencer for Island Rose - Flower Delivery Philippines. We hope you enjoyed this article and encourage you to visit our website. Through Island Rose, you can find Florists Philippines or simply browse through our blog for more informative articles.

Many thanks for reading our Extra Spool article

Fishing Rod Case
Dirks: Please stop the mountain lion cryin'
My e-mail bag regularly contains some interesting outdoors information, but one recent message in particular caught my attention.
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Consider making a checklist of the fly fishing accessories that you will need for your fly fishing trips. Have you ever gone fly fishing and sometime during the day discovered that a needed item was left at home? If you are a fly-fishing beginner or a seasoned veteran who is short on time, it's a good idea to have a checklist of needed items. If you are going to an exotic fly-fishing destination you need to make a list. The following is a grouping of items you may need on your checklist to support your next fly fishing adventure.

#1. Basic Items: First is the fly rod and reel; that's easy, but you may want to take a backup rod and reel in case of damage or failure. Consider a couple extra fly reel spools with a floating; sinking or wet tip fly lines. If you are making a trip to an exotic destination, you may need extra bulk spools of backing and leader material, or extra leaders in a wide range of lengths, and tippet strengths an a leader wallet might be handy.

#2. Optional Items: Fly-fishing vest and flies especially for the waters you are fishing, dry flies, fly floatant, and dry fly leaders. Your vest should have a fly patch to dry out water-logged flies. Nymphs and wet flies may need to be fished with strike indicators and shot for weight. Consider small pliers, leader nippers, hook hone, catch-releases tool, and small scissors. A med-sized Swiss army knife, flyline conditioner, stream thermometer, landing net, Campsuds, small hand towel, extra empty fly box plus an assortment of terrestrials and streamers flies.

#3 Needed Items: Waders, wading boots, or flats boots, wading staff, wader belt, studded sandals, Aquaseal adhesive, extra boot strings, float tube fins, inflatable PFD and accessories, extra boot socks, 2 pairs of polarized sunglasses, UVA & UVB waterproof sun block lotion SPF45, SPF 30 sun gloves, brimmed fishing hat, mosquito spray, dry bag, rain gear and a good rain hat, cold-weather clothing, underwear and gloves.

Thank you for taking the time to read what I have to say. Good fishing, and please respect our environment and practice catch and release.

For more fly-fishing tips and information please visit: http://www.oregon-fly-fishing-with-stan.com

Stanley Stanton: Oregon Fly Fishing Guide and McKenzie River fishing guide, Visit: http://www.oregon-fly-fishing-with-stan.com
For trout fly fishing tips, how to fly fish information, plus guided Rainbow Trout Fly Fishing, Steelhead Fly Fishing, classes for beginners and advanced fly fishing and Oregon Salmon Fishing.

Many thanks for reading our Fishing Rod Case article

Rio Nymph Fly

Fishing the dry fly is at the top of the fly fisherman list of fun
fishing. The visual dry fly catch continues to attract many
Fishermen and best angle of travel. Many fishermen are trying to
deal with different techniques of fly tying and
nymphing techniques. We will discuss some of these techniques
below, but for now we'll start with the techniques of dry fly.

To watch the fly drift free, then the flash of a trout, followed by
its double reed - thid what most of us later. To
experience who are fly fishermen go to most measures beyond
other fishermen. I would say that 30% of the time fishing Fly
engaged in fishing the dry fly. My favorite memories fly fishing have
Big Fish including dry fly. Of course, dredging a nymph, and
connect a huge ancient river rainbow or brown is good, but
IÂ'll take a brook trout on a dry fly, of any size daily.

When I go to a stream, new or old, I got a nymph in the first place. There
exceptions (the rising fish everywhere to an obvious hatch) that
I dig into my compartment box, but the indicator and
nymph is my first choice. I catch fish while I watch
what happens in the flow. When I discovered things,
then go to the dry fly. This is where I most enjoy.

The team is important! Try using a meter in length as a fly
go out with her. Some anglers use a 5'6 "Fly Rod Dry
fishing, but in general, a longer rod eight feet or more is
desirable. Action to medium or higher is desirable that the
and the reaction rate adaptation hook fishing dry flies that sometimes
decisions.

It is also preferable to use large coils Arbor size. A large tree keeps a
flying flexible online without loops diameter storage tanks attached. A
drive system of fines, or none at all important to protect
Fine Yarn the last minute when a fish runs. A fly rod should also
balance. The reel weight must stick to the point where
your index finger rests on the cork grip "balance." This would
when the rod hangs in the balance of your index
on the cap. This makes sense to cast a second nature. You
reach a level in the casting becomes second nature, is
fly feel behind their leader, the end of the rod bending and
loop of the flight line during the casting it feels like surveillance
the wheels on the road while driving.

Understanding these important aspects of fly fishing is not
difficult, just need some experience. Soon we arrive at a
point where you know every aspect of their
equipment and fishing technique in precise detail. About particularly if
continue to go after trout with a fly rod, especially a place sec
fishing rods. Just remember to balance your team. You see
credit for that, like fish!

Fly choice line come into play when thinking about dry fly
team. I want to fly online in gray, green or white. Colors
other than that used for capture of fishers in the fly shop
counter. In line to beat the weight of less than 4 pesos, double tapers
or weight forward, you will find a very difficult time
make a difference. A double taper will last twice as long
because you can rotate around the fly line when is worn. But
seem to gravitate toward a weight forward. If you like "shoot"
casts, the weight forward seems to work better.

If desired, you can experiment with mini shooting heads and
Custom Made lines of their activities fishing dry flies. Loop supply
many different fly lines are available for experimentation.
Leaders are an important aspect of fly fishing dry. Many fishermen
use Rio leaders, which are very flexible, but the butt
by midsection is stiff enough for the leader to straighten,
or "turn". For small streams, a leader of 9 feet at 6x is
perfect. If you have to abandon 7X, a length can Tippet
is added.

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Here's how to AMAZE your friends (and maybe even make them
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Flextec Fly Lines

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Many thanks for reading our Flextec Fly Lines article

Scientific Angler Fly
I would like to know what a fly rod called scientific angler bought in the 1960's would be worth? It's 8' 1" .

I found this fishing rod in my husbands closet after he died. It is in cloth cover and in metal tubing. It is a system 6 with a line weight of #6. It is in almost perfect condition. We had three daughter's who have no interest in fish, so I thought I would sell it, but don't know where to start.

Scientific anglers are more famous for their fly lines being of excellent quality, they haven't made many rods except a few, they are a good make and you should get about $50-110 for it, possibly more if its a limited edition or if its in good condition and a collector wants it. Its a shame no body wants to use it but these things happen. Try eBay i would put a reserve on it of a minimum of $80 if its in good condition.

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Many thanks for reading our Scientific Angler Fly article

Fly Lines

How many of you put a different wt.fly line on your fly rod?

I heard from some people that a fly rod is specifically made only for the weight of line that is marked on the rod and other weights simply won't work. I also have seen on other websites that say that you can use one wt above what is marked and one weight below what is marked on the rod. I have a 6 wt tip heavy rod that I think would prefer a 7 wt. Any of you use different weights than what is marked? If so, have you had much success with the change in weights?

it does effect it greatly as it wont cast as well i always prefer to use size 7

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Cortland Master Braid
Bronzeback Brown 30lb test.More famous for a vast range of fly lines, you think? Well, let me give you a little from their website.

Many thanks for reading our Fly Lines article

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