Spool Fly

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Lamson KONIC 2 Fly Reel with Spare Spool
US $130.27
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Fly Fishing CNC Anodized Aluminum Fly Reel 5 6W Black With Extra Spool
US $61.27
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Fly Fishing CNC Anodized Aluminum Fly Reel 7 8W Silver With Extra Spool
US $63.28
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Fly Fishing CNC Anodized Aluminum Fly Reel 7 8W Black With Extra Spool
US $63.28
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Fly Fishing CNC Anodized Aluminum Fly Reel 9 11W Silver With Extra Spool
US $65.29
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US $65.29
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Nice Lot of 19 Spools Various Fly Tying Thread Danvilles Floss
US $9.99
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Fly Fishing CNC Anodized Aluminum Fly Reel 5 6W Black With Extra Spool
US $57.25
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Fly Fishing CNC Anodized Aluminum Fly Reel 7 8W Black With Extra Spool
US $60.27
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ORVIS BATTENKILL FLY FISH REEL 7 8 WITH EXTRA SPOOL MADE IN ENGLAND
US $106.78
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US $25.00
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OKUMA INTEGRITY 10 11 FLY REEL SPARE SPOOL
US $51.03
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US $.99
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SPARE SPOOL FOR PFLUEGER 1598RC FLY REEL
US $9.99
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Spool For Redington Fly Fishing Reel With Fly Line and Backing
US $7.50
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Anglers Roost ARE Dacron Fly Line Backing110yd Spools 25 Test
US $5.99
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US $7.99
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ROSS CIMARRON Fly Reel C3 New With Xtra Spool and Cortland WF6F Line
US $102.50
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Airliners flying into known turbulence - is it sometimes economically acceptable?

A few years ago, I was a passenger in a 767 flying between Australia & NZ. Shortly after t/o the flight deck came on to tell us that the company had told them that the a/c was needed back at base asap, so the trip would be relatively quick. About half way into the trip, we encountered turbulence severe enough to cause a pretty dramatic wing drop, what felt like sig altitude loss and loud engine spooling. It was during meal time and all the meal trays crashed onto the floor- people were vocally anxious (some screaming) and a PA ann told the FAs to drop down & secure. I don't think that anyone was injured and shortly afterwards the flight deck came on and explained that they had clipped the edge of a storm cell and that drycleaning bills would be picked up by the company!
My question is - since storm cells are detectable by cockpit radar, is there such a thing as a 'safe' distance from them, and is that distance acceptably reduced in airline ops?

The general rule of thumb is to clear any storm by at least 20 nautical miles from the edge of the precipitation returns (not the center of the storm). When clearing a storm from above, it's recommended to allow 1,000 feet for every 10 knots of wind aloft, i.e. if the winds are 60 knots, clear the storm top by 6,000 feet. These distances are never (or should never be) sacrificed for the sake of saving time.

There shouldn't be any airline out there that would intentionally go near or through thunderstorms to save time. That's not negotiable for most people. I don't think the pilots actually knew about the storm there because they would have warned people about it and have the flight attendants discontinue meal service well ahead of the time they got that close to storms.

The only time I have "clipped" the edge of a storm was a rapidly developing storm. There was nothing showing up on my radar. I was flying in clouds, so it was an embedded storm that I couldn't see with my eyes. Suddenly, my radar went from nothing to yellow and red about 8 miles in front of me within a matter of about 20 seconds. I made an immediate 90 degree turn away from it, but I still got a few good jolts out of it, even though I did not go through it.

The even trickier turbulence is clear air turbulence. Turbulence doesn't always come from storm cells. Clear air turbulence is experienced far more often and it poses a problem because it cannot be detected - pilots must rely on the reports of other pilots. Often, the turbulence can extend in areas hundreds of miles long and at altitude ranges of tens of thousands of feet. There's often just no way to avoid it. Many injuries happen each year as a result of clear air turbulence. It's never because something on the airplane failed - it's always because people are walking around or aren't buckled up.

To directly answer your question, no, airlines shouldn't fly into known turbulence like that just for economic reasons. Some pilots may feel the pressure to take shortcuts, but all training warns against those mental traps and it goes against just about any company's policies.

Fishing reels are sometimes taken for granted and not many people take time to think about the Intricacies of fishing reel parts. They are the device that brings the fish in, and modern fishing reels are fairly complicated devices. The spinning reel is the most popular version used in fishing today, but it is not always the best choice for many types of fishing. You should never guess as to which reel will be the right choice for you while browsing the aisles are a fishing supply store. Understanding how a fishing reel works can help you determine which are the best options for your needs. Spinning reels and baitcast reels are different, and in either case, it is a good idea to chose the reel with the fewest parts and they have the lower chance of mechanical failure.

Reel bodies can be made of plastic, aluminum, steel, or graphic. Aluminum is tougher than graphite, but graphite is much lighter. It is a personal call whether the lower weight of graphite is worth it trade off in toughness, but it primarily depends on the type of fishing you do. Larger fish will require aluminum, while catching smaller fish allows you to get away with graphite and have less weight to deal with. Graphite is also great at resisting saltwater corrosion. When looking at a reel to buy you should be sure it feels solid and has no loose and rattling parts. There movement should be smooth and there should be no back play.

The reel size is important as well. Lighter lines call for smaller reels, and vise versa. In most cases ten pound test line is as tough as you need, so your reel should not exceed the diameter needed by ten pound test line. However, if you are into serious saltwater fishing you may need a bigger reel and line.

One of the most important fishing reel parts are the gears as these are what connect the crank to the spool. The ratio of the gears determines how many revolutions the spool makes when one revolution of the crank is made. And example would be a ratio or 4:1. This means that turning the crank once makes the spool turn four times. Having a lower ratio, such as 3:1 is advantageous for reeling in bigger fish as it provides more torque. The downside is that the process will be slower. For smaller fish a higher ratio can be used since less torque is needed. The upside is that you can reel the fish in faster.

Drag systems are what apply the pull on a hooked fish, but let the line out when the fish is fighting. This helps absorb the energy of the fish and prevent a broken line or dropped reel. The ball bearings in the reel help keep the action smooth, which aids in a very confident and consistent reeling motion.

Your fishing reel parts when assembled together are the mechanical components that helps you actually bring the fish in. If the reel is not up to the task, you will not catch the fish even though it took the bait. Do not skimp on your reel, but also do not buy a reel that in excessive to your needs as an oversized reel will make catching smaller fish more difficult.

Learn more about finding the right fishing gear by visiting http://www.fishinggeartips.com - a website that offers information on fishing including tips on fishing line, fishing rods, fishing lures and fishing reels [http://www.fishinggeartips.com/fishingreel.php].

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